On a bright summer morning in Buxton, Derbyshire, I wander up to St Ann’s Well with a water bottle in hand. The fountain is quietly bubbling, but the streets are calm — a striking contrast to the packed tourist squares of Bath. It’s hard to believe a place with such history and beauty can feel so unhurried.
I’ve been visiting Buxton since childhood, often during the summer months when the Peak District’s wells are dressed with intricate floral displays. The tradition, which stretches back to pagan times, gives the town a timeless quality — as though Buxton has been celebrating the life-giving power of water for centuries.
A Tale of Two Spa Towns
Buxton shares striking similarities with Bath. Both towns are famous for their mineral-rich thermal springs, elegant Georgian crescents, and reputations as spa destinations since Roman times. Yet their modern fortunes differ sharply.
Bath, with its 193,000 residents, welcomes more than five million tourists each year. That influx clogs roads, fills car parks, and leaves the city grappling with coach fumes. Earlier this year, local councillors even proposed a tourist tax to ease the pressure.
Buxton, by comparison, feels almost like a secret. Its population barely tops 20,000, and only about 1.5 million people visited in 2023. For travelers seeking wellness and history without the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds, Buxton offers a quieter, equally rewarding alternative.
Roman Roots and Sacred Springs
Buxton’s story began with the Romans, who discovered the steaming waters at St Ann’s Well around 50 BC. They christened the settlement Aquae Arnemetiae, honoring the goddess of sacred groves. Like Bath, it became a place of healing, faith, and rest.
Remnants of this era remain. Roman roads still lead into town, pottery fragments are displayed in the library, and the ruins of an ancient bathhouse lie beneath Buxton Crescent. The grand crescent itself, built in the late 18th century, deliberately echoed Bath’s architecture. In the 19th century, the complex expanded to include mineral baths and a pump room, today transformed into a heritage centre.
Visitors can learn more about this layered history at the Buxton Crescent Experience, where immersive exhibits tell the story of spa culture through the ages. And yes, you can still sip the mineral water at St Ann’s Well, just as generations before have done.
Austen, Darcy, and the Peaks
Literary connections add to Buxton’s charm. Jane Austen famously loved Derbyshire, weaving its landscapes into Pride and Prejudice. Her heroine Elizabeth Bennet tours Chatsworth House, just half an hour’s drive from Buxton, while film and TV adaptations turned nearby Lyme Park and Chatsworth into Mr. Darcy’s iconic estates.
This September, the town will celebrate Austen’s 250th birthday during the Buxton Georgian Festival (23–28 September). The event promises a Georgian market, talks from historians, and appearances from authors like Terry Deary of Horrible Histories. A Regency ball — complete with live period music, guided dances, and elaborate costumes — is the highlight, inviting fans to step back into Austen’s world.
A Year-Round Cultural Hub
Beyond its Georgian splendour, Buxton thrives as a modern cultural destination. At the heart of town stands the Buxton Opera House, an ornate theatre that stages everything from opera and ballet to touring plays and comedy. Each summer, it anchors the Buxton International Festival, drawing world-class singers, musicians, and writers for a fortnight of performances.
The arts calendar hardly stops there. The Buxton Fringe Festival runs alongside the main festival, offering hundreds of grassroots performances. Throughout the year, venues like the Pavilion Arts Centre and Octagon Hall host concerts, dances, exhibitions, and film screenings. Meanwhile, the Gallery in the Gardens gives visitors the chance to meet local artists — I’ve stumbled upon more than one unexpected favourite there.
Tastes of Derbyshire
No trip is complete without sampling the local flavours. Start simple with a Buxton pudding or a Derbyshire oatcake from the town market — the highest in England at 1,032 feet above sea level. For something refined, book a table at the 1789 Restaurant inside the Buxton Crescent Hotel, where indulgent desserts like dark chocolate and hazelnut torte linger in memory. The historic Old Hall Hotel, once a refuge for Mary, Queen of Scots, also serves up hearty meals in atmospheric surroundings.
Why Buxton, and Why Now
What makes Buxton so appealing is its balance: the grandeur of its architecture, the serenity of its spa waters, the vibrancy of its cultural life, all without the sense of being overwhelmed by visitors. While Bath grapples with overtourism, Buxton feels like a well-kept secret — elegant yet approachable, steeped in history yet alive with creativity.
For those seeking a restorative weekend or a cultural escape, this Derbyshire town delivers the essence of a spa-city break without the rush. Perhaps it’s time more travelers turned their gaze from Bath’s crowded crescents to Buxton’s quieter streets, where history flows just as richly, and the welcome feels all the warmer.
