You can’t meet “Captain June” in person anymore, though you may find yourself wishing you could. June Haimoff, an Essex-born conservationist who dedicated decades to protecting the loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta), passed away three years ago at the age of 100. But her presence lingers in Dalyan, a small riverside town in Turkey’s Mugla Province. A bronze memorial of her now stands in the Kaunos Tea Garden, depicting her with the very creature she fought to save.
It doesn’t take long to understand her devotion. A few minutes on the banks of the Dalyan River—the slow, winding waterway that cuts through town—will likely reward you with the sight of one of these ancient mariners surfacing for air on their way to or from Iztuzu Beach.
Journey to Iztuzu Beach
For visitors, the simplest way to reach the beach is by dolmuş, a shared minibus that departs every 15 minutes from a rank near the central mosque. The round trip costs just 100 lira (about £2) and drops passengers within walking distance of “Captain June’s” original baraka, or beach hut. Today, the site also hosts the Sea Turtle Research, Rescue & Rehabilitation Centre, which she co-founded in 2009.
Before you wander through the centre’s turtle hospital or settle into a lounger beside nests marked by protective wire cages, pause for a moment. The beach itself—an unspoiled stretch of golden sand separating the Mediterranean from Dalyan’s freshwater delta—explains more about June’s passion than any signboard could. She first stumbled upon this landscape in 1975 and eventually moved there in the mid-1980s.
Her timing proved critical. Developers had grand plans for a sprawling resort complex, but June’s campaign, which quickly drew support from Greenpeace, WWF, and even Prince Philip, put a stop to it. By 1988, the Turkish government declared the beach a protected zone. Thanks to that victory, Dalyan has grown in its own way—slower, more authentic, and far removed from the mass-market resorts that dominate much of the Turkish Riviera.
A Town With Character
Not that Dalyan lacks a lively streak. Maras Street, the main drag one block from the river, has its share of outdoor bars, karaoke, and souvenir shops selling “genuine fake” designer gear. But the atmosphere is relaxed rather than raucous. The shopkeepers are friendly, not pushy; the bar staff know how to charm without hassle; and even the ice cream vendors are usually teenagers from family businesses.
At one end of the street sits the Unique Art Gallery, an air-conditioned treasure trove of ceramics, textiles, and handcrafted jewelry. The owner, Kenan, designs many of the silver pieces himself. Visitors who make it past the aloof white cat sprawled at the entrance—“It thinks it owns the place, and it’s not even mine,” he jokes—often linger longer than planned.
Cats, in fact, are everywhere in Dalyan, well-fed and cared for by locals and charities alike. At Saki, a much-loved riverside restaurant, they snooze beneath the tables while diners select from dozens of mezes instead of a menu. The walnut-feta dip is legendary, and dinner for two with wine comes to around £50.
Ancient Echoes Across the River
Dalyan is not only about food and turtles. Across the water, Lycian rock tombs carved into the cliffs around 400 BC glow dramatically at night. A rowing boat taxi will take you across for just a few coins. From there, a short walk leads to the ruins of Kaunos, a city founded in the 10th century BC. Its amphitheatre, acropolis, and temples remain remarkably intact, yet the site sees only a trickle of visitors.
The town doesn’t loudly advertise this ancient neighbour—there are barely any signs pointing the way. Perhaps this humility is deliberate, a quiet refusal to package history for quick consumption.
Markets, Mud Baths, and Moonlit Cruises
On Saturdays, Dalyan bursts into colour with its weekly market. Past the rows of knockoff handbags lies a fragrant maze of spice stalls, fresh produce, and honey vendors. Bargaining is expected, but bring cash—credit cards are still unwelcome in most of rural Turkey.
From the town’s jetty, boats depart daily for Lake Köyceğiz. A moonlit cruise across its glassy waters, complete with a barbecue dinner, swim stop, and a visit to Sultaniye’s hot springs and mud baths, costs around 3,000 lira (£60) for two. Tickets sell out quickly, so book a few days ahead.
Staying in Dalyan
Accommodation tends to be small-scale and family-run. The Turay Hotel, for example, sits just five minutes from the town centre but feels a world away with its riverside setting and breakfast jetty. Guests sip coffee as boats glide past, heading upstream or down toward the sea.
Dalyan’s Enduring Spirit
Despite being only 15 miles from Dalaman Airport, Dalyan has resisted the pressures of mass tourism. Unlike nearby Marmaris, it hasn’t become a playground for package holidays. Much of that resilience is credited to June Haimoff’s activism and the protective laws it inspired.
So, when you pass her statue in the tea garden, perhaps after a long day of boat rides, mezze dinners, or market haggling, take a moment to thank her. Without “Captain June,” Dalyan might be just another faceless resort. Instead, it remains one of Turkey’s most enchanting small towns—a place where turtles, tombs, and timeless charm coexist.
